I’ve owed a friend of mine a skateboard rack for quite some time, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to check out our local reclaimed lumber store. Unfortunately, most of the cedar boards they had in stock had just been sold, but we were able to find a pretty nice 8’ x 2" x 4" piece that looked like it could be cleaned up.

A wooden skateboard rack, skateboards, and helmet.

I started surfacing it by running it through the jointer and planer.

A jointer is used to join a cedar board.
A piece of cedar with one face and one edge joined.

After that, I ripped off the worst of the damage over at the table saw, and it ended up being right around 3.5" wide. Note that if you’re able to find some nice surfaced lumber to start with, you can avoid these cleanup steps and make the remaining cuts with just a miter saw or even a handsaw.

A table saw is used to rip a cedar board to width.

Next, I used my miter saw to cut the back board to length, and then I started making all the 45° cuts for the smaller front pieces. Here you could definitely customize the rack for however many skateboards you want to display.

A miter saw is used to cut a cedar board into separate parts.

Once all the pieces were finished, I trimmed a little off the top lip of each just to help prevent them from chipping when skateboards were placed on the rack.

A table saw is used to cut a lip on each part.

Then I marked a few guidelines for positioning the pieces. I left a 3/4" gap between each piece which seemed to be a good fit for the boards.

A ruler is used to mark the spacing between each cedar part.

Gluing the pieces onto the back took a little bit of effort as the pieces wanted to squirm around. It may have been easier to predrill and use two screws from the back into each front piece to avoid the clamps, but it turned out fine in the end.

Clamps are used to glue the front pieces of cedar to the back piece.

Once the glue dried, I used a card scraper and some sandpaper to clean up the glue joints.

A card scraper is used to remove glue on a cedar skateboard rack.

Next, I drilled a counter-bore hole in the top and bottom of the rack for the 4.5" Heavy-Duty HeadLok mounting screws.

A drill press is used to drill a hole in a cedar skateboard rack.

For the finish, I used a coat of boiled linseed oil followed by several thin coats of homemade wipe-on-polyurethane (a 1:1 ratio of Clear Gloss Minwax Polyurethane and Mineral Spirits). I sanded lightly between roughly every other coat.

Polyurethane is applied to a cedar skateboard rack.

Finally, I predrilled and added two cabinet screws (the HeadLok screws would also work) to the bottom of the rack for hanging helmets.

A helmet hanging from a cedar skateboard rack.

To mount the rack I located a stud and predrilled a hole for the top screw. I then hung the rack with only the top screw with it just barely loose (so that it could still be rotated). After leveling the rack on the wall, I marked where the lower screw should go and rotated the rack out of the way in order to predrill the hole. Finally, I added the lower screw and tightened the top screw.

A helmet hanging from a cedar skateboard rack.

That was pretty much it for this project. Other than spending a little time on the finish, the rest of the project was relatively easy to do.

A wooden skateboard rack, skateboards, and helmet.

Parts List

Tools Used

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A 3D and 2D rendering of skateboard rack.